Kuziva Zvinhu Zvakasvibirira Zvishandiswa muVictoria Zvishongo

01 ye 09

Victorian Black Jewelry Materials

Black yakava mukuru mumakore ekuma1800 sekutaura kwemafashoni uye sekuchema kwezvishongo , nguva yekufananidza zvikamu zvakanzi zvakakodzera kupfeka munguva yakareba yemutero kune imwe hama yakasara. Jewellers vakashandisa zvinhu zvakasiyana-siyana zvakasvibirira kuti vagadzire zvidimbu izvi uye kazhinji ivo zvakaoma kusiyanisa, kunyanya sezvo vamwe vakagadzirirwa nemaune kutevedzera zvisingaiti, zvinhu zvepanyama.

Izvi zvinotsvaga zvakasiyana-siyana zveAvtorian mabhandi matsvuku, nemazano ekuzviziva, zvakanyorwa nerubatsiro rwaLisa Stockhammer, purezidhendi weThe Three Graces (www.georgianjewelry.com), uye Pamela Y. Wiggins, nyanzvi yekare uye munyori we Warman's Costume Jewelry .

Muchikamu chino cheSladeshow, iwe uchadzidza nezve:

Berlin iron

Bog oak

Dzinga siri

French jet

Gutta Percha

Jet

Onyx

Vulcanite

02 of 09

Berlin Iron

Berlin iron yakagadzirwa nematare ejecha-yakagadzirwa nedare, kazhinji yakave yakasvibiswa mumatema, iyo inovapa iny, matte finish. Iyo inofanirwa nehombe asi yakaisvonaka-yakagadziriswa michina ine ruzivo kana bhuti-kufanana, "iine magnetic uye inotonhorera kumubata," Stockhammer akati. Zvikamu zvakabatana nezvipfigiso kana zvindori, zvisati zvambotengeswa, sezvo mafaira akanga asingakoshi (saka chenjererai nechidimbu nezviratidzo zvakajeka zvekugadzirisa). Zvimwe zvingave zvigadziriswa nezita remuiti (Geiss naEdward Schott vaiva vaviri vevanozivikanwe zvikuru), uye pasinei nelacquer, inogona kuratidza zviratidzo zveura.

Rudzi urwu rwezvishongo zvakagadzirwa muGermany kunenge muna 1800 uye zvakanyanya kuitwa ikoko, kunyange zvazvo yakaitwawo muFrance, Austria uye zvino yava Czech Republic. Yakatanga kuve yakakurumbira sechiratidzo chekuda nyika muna 1813. Sezvo chikamu chehondo yePrussia ichirwisana naNapoleon I, vakadzi vakakurudzirwa kuchinjana zvinhu zvavo zvegoridhe nematombo anokosha zvidimbu zvakagadzirwa nesimbi (mamwe acho akanyorwa kunyange "Ndakapa ndarama yesimbi "muGermany). Zvishongo zvemazana emakore ekutanga ezana remakore rechi19 zvakaitwa muNeoclassical kana chiGeorgian style (cameos, mashizha, maiti kubva kuGreek kana kuRoma nhema). Mumakumi makumi emakore akatevera, zvishongo zvesirivha zvaiwanzoshandiswa kuchema zvishongo, nekushandura kunyoresa kuratidza mazvino maGothic Revival (tastey arches, trefoils, fourfoils).

03 of 09

Bog Oak

Kufanana nejet, bogi oak imhuni (chaiyo muoki, fir, pine kana yew) iyo yakave yakasimbiswa mumapuranga kana mapegi kuitira kuti inoshanduka yakaoma uye yakasviba kana yakajeka mutsvuku muvara. Izvo zvisinganzwisisiki uye zvinodziya kumubata, asi inowanzo ine matte kupera, asi inopesana nejet inowanzopenya kupenya, maererano neStockhammer.

Kazhinji kubva kuIreland, bhokisi re oak raishandiswa kuve zvishongo kubva pakutanga kwema1800, asi rakava rakakurumbira pakati pemakore ekuma1900. Izvi zvinonyanya kuitika shure kwe 1852, apo maitiro ekuisa-kuumba nekugadzira iyo (kushandisa hydraulic kana kupisa zvinopisa kumiti yakaomeswa) yakagadzirwa. Kunyange zvazvo yakashandiswa nokuda kwekushongedza zvishongo sechinzvimbo chezvemari chejet, chakanga chakapfekedzwawo kutsigira mishonga yeIrish, zvidimbu zvikave zvakavezwa kana kupfupiswa neGaelic motifs sembira kana shamrocks (iyo isingafungidziri sejeri rekuchema). Zvimwe zvakawanda zvinyorwa zvingave zvakaputirwa nemaparera kana ndarama.

04 of 09

Dzinga Steel

Cheka simbi (chaizvoizvo yakawanda gema kupfuura gema muvara) zvidimbu zvinosanganisira zviputi zvakagadzirwa nesimbi uye mashizha anorohwa kana kuti akabatanidzwa, ndokugadzirirwa mumatanda uye akabatanidzwa zvakasimba pamwechete, uye pakupedzisira anotsemuka kana kuitirwa ruzha, pamusoro pendarira kumashure. Iyo "mitsipa inoratidzika seyikidzi yekambani nemakona maduku," seStockhammer inouisa. Dura simbi inonzwa inotonhorera kumubata, uye inofanira kuva nemuchena inopenya. Ikoko kunogonawo kuva zviratidzo zveura.

Iyi nzira yakagadzirwa muEngland mumavambo ekutanga kwema1600, pakutanga kwezvinyorwa uye mabhatani. Dhina simbi yakatanga kutora mamwe maitiro nema1760s, kusanganisira zvindori, mabhandi, zvishongo nemapuranga emadhiriyoni eMadgwood nemasosos. Mateo Boulton akanga ari muchengeti wekare wekugadzira zvishongo zvesimbi. Zvimwe zvikamu zvinotevera zvinoratidza chivako chakavhiringidzika asi chinopesana nekugadziriswa kwepurasitiki munzvimbo, zvose zvesirivha nemhangura zvakashandiswa kumutsigira.

Kunyange zvazvo zviri pachena kudhura kudhura kupfuura zvidimbu zvakaitwa nemabwe anokosha, kutema zvishongo zvesirivha zvakanga zvisina kungochinja. Mufambiro wekuita-kazhinji aiipfekedza, kunyanya muhafu inotevera yezana remakore rechi19, apo kubwinya kwahwo kwakanyatsoita kuti zvive zvakanaka kune "kuchema kwechipiri" (gare gare, danho risina simba rekuchema). Pakazosvika makore makumi mapfumbamwe nemakumi mapfumbamwe nemakumi mapfumbamwe nemashanu, vaFrance vakanga vatora mutungamiri mukucheka kwezvishongo zvishongo, vachigadzirisa zvidimbu zvakaiswa pavé-set.

05 of 09

French Jet

French Jet yakasviba, kana kuti tsvuku yakajeka, girazi panzvimbo yezvinhu zvakasikwa sejet rechokwadi. Inonzwa inotonhora, inorema uye yakaoma, uye inobwinya yakagadzirwa zvikuru. Matombo anoitwa nemashoko aya anowanzosimbiswa nesimbi yakanyungudutswa uye yakasungirirwa, inoshandiswa kana kuti yakasungirirwa pane imwe nzvimbo yesimbi.

French jet misoro dzimwe nguva inenge yakaumbwa kana kuti ruoko rune simba kuti rione sejet, asi richave rakanyanya kukurema uye kutonhorera kumubati kana ichienzaniswa nehudziro hwejet chaiyo. "Kana uine ruzha, uye ukaona chero chipi, inenge yakavezwa, yakarohwa uye inenge yakasvibiswa muchimiro - se chip mugirazi kana girazi," Stockhammer yakataurwa yeFrench jet.

Yakagadzirwa kutanga kwezana remakore rechi19 uye yakagadziriswa muma1860, rudzi urwu rwegirazi rwakagadzirwa muFrance - saka zita racho - asi kunyange muAustria, England, Germany, uye zvino yava Czech Republic. Nemhaka yokuti yaive yakadhura zvikuru kudhura kupfuura jet chaiye, jet reFrance rakava guru guru rekuzvininipisa-kutengesa kwemajeri uye marashiro emafashoni, sepine pin inoratidzwa pano, munguva ino.

06 of 09

Gutta Percha

Gutta Percha ibhu rakafanana nerubha rakagadzirwa neakisi yakabva mumiti muSoutheast Asia, zvikurukuru kuMalaysia. Kufanana nemucheka waro womukoma, vulcanite, iyo inotonhora-yakasviba pakuonekwa (asi yakatarisa kubata ruvara rutsvuku rwakaita nguva yakareba), uye inoumbwa panzvimbo yekuvezwa - saka, "dzimwe nguva unogona kuona mhando yeganda, neziso kana chikumbiro, "Inotsanangura kudaro Stockhammer. Ichapa hutachiona, ruvara rwerubha kana rutsva ruchizununguka.

Yakanyatsogadziriswa asi yakagadzikana, yakatanga kushandiswa muma 1840 yezvishongo. Mumakore ekupedzisira e1900, yakashandiswa sechinhu chinodhura chinodhura yejet muzvichemo zvekuchema.

07 of 09

Jet

Jet, chimiro chehuni chakasimbiswa, ndiyo inenge yakasvibiswa uye yakanyanya kukoshesa zvinhu zvakasvibirira zvinoshandiswa kugadzira zvishongo zveVictorian. Icho chiedza chiri kurema, uye chinyoro uye chinodziya kumubata.

Kuona pasi peruzha, kazhinji kacho kune zviduku zviduku, zvakasiyana zvakasiyana nemajetesi echiFrench (girasi). Jet yemasikirwo inogona kuvezwa kana kupatsanurana, asi kunyange kana yakanyatsogurwa, inopenya pane kunopenya. Ramba uchifunga, zvisinei, jet jewelry dzakagadzirirwa kuti kuchema kokutanga kuve kusvibiswa panzvimbo yekunaya, uye kwete jet jewelry dzose dzakagadzirwa pakuchema. Vashtorian fashion jewelry yakaitwawo nejet.

Dzidza zvakawanda nezvejet:

Kuziva uye Kuedza Jet

08 of 09

Onyx

Black onyx rudzi rwe quartz kana chalcedony. Izvo "zvinogona kuvhiringidzirwa kuFrance jet," Stockhammer inoti, sezvakangoitawo zvishoma, zvinotonhorera kumubata uye zvakaputirwa kusvika pakupedzisira kunotyisa. Jet iyo inogonawo kuva nechinhu chinopenya, kana ichienzanisa, ine chiedza chakareruka.

Vakawanda vema-onyx muzvishongo zvakanyatsoiswa dhi mutsvuku kuitira kuti ruvara rwuri kunyange, runogona kucherechedzwa kana ruchidzidzwa nemuranda we jeweler's.

09 of 09

Vulcanite

Vulcanite rudzi rwehupu yakasvibiswa yakaumbwa nekubatanidza sulfuri neIndia rubha, ipapo inopisa mutengesi kwemaawa akawanda. Charles Goodyear anorumbidzwa nekuvandudza nzira, iyo yaakabhabhatidza muna 1844. Vulcanite inogona kuva yakachena kana yemarudzi akasiyana-siyana. Somugumisiro, pakati nepakati kwekupedzisira-yezana remakore rechi19, dombo rakaoma raiwanzoshandiswa kutevedzera koral, tortoiseshell uye jet - zvikurukuru yekupedzisira, sezvo zvikamu zvidema zvakave zvakakurumbira, zvikurukuru nehuwandu hwekushongedza zvishongo.

Kufanana nejet, iyo inenge isina chiedza uye inodziya kana kutonhorera kwekamuri kumubata. Asi kunyange zvazvo inogona kuputirwa kune mhuka yakanaka, vulcanite haina kumboita sechinhu chakajeka sejete chaiyo yakaputika. Zvizhinji zvezvipukanana zvinogadzirwa, zvakasiyana nemifananidzo yakavezwa, uye zvinogona kuita semafuta e-espresso kupfuura mavara-mashizha akaiswa maronda panguva uye kufema kwezuva.

Stockhammer inopa chidimbu ichi: Kana yakasvibiswa nemirairi isina kuvhiringidzwa kana pasi pechidimbu chevhu, vulcanite mashizha e-brown streak (asi kuedza kwakadaro kunofanirwa kunyatsoitwa kuti isasvibisa kubwinya kwechimwe chezvishongo). Iyi nzira haina maturo, zvisinei, sezvo jet inogona kuzvibata saizvozvo. Tarisa pazvinhu zvose zvechigamba usati wafunga kuti ndeye vulcanite.

Pamela Y. Wiggins, munyori weWarman's Costume Jewelry , akabatsira munyaya ino.